Swiss watchmaker LONGINES revisits one of its most legendary dive watches for a new generation of collectors as MAXIM tries on the all-new Ultra-Chron Diver…
With a history dating back to 1832, the heritage of Swiss watchmaker Longines is rich and multilayered. Although the company is perhaps most famed as the watchmaker of choice for aviators like Charles Lindbergh, its forays into dive watches have also produced some stunning timepieces. Case in point: the Ultra-Chron Diver watch, originally released in 1968. At that time, Longines set a new standard with the Ultra-Chron, the first dive watch to be equipped with a high-frequency movement.
In technical terms, a watch is referred to as “high-frequency” when it is fitted with a movement whose balance spring oscillates at 36,000 beats per hour (or 10 beats every second). Longines pioneered high frequency movements, first in 1914 (to time 1/10th of a second) and then 1916 (to time 1/100th of a second) and these achievements changed timekeeping in sport forever. In fact, Longines continues to serve as the official timekeeper of a variety of elite horse racing and winter sports worldwide, as well as the Commonwealth Games in Birmingham.
Now Longines has gone back to the archives to revisit the Ultra-Chron Diver and rebirth this icon. Inspired by the original, the new model reflects the iconic design codes of its ancestor and is highly resistant to shocks, scratches and water pressure. The new edition is also equipped with the same 43mm cushion-shaped steel case and a diving bezel that boasts a sapphire insert with luminescent accents. The eye-catching black grained dial features a white minute track, with alternating Super-LumiNova-coated batons and rhodium-plated appliques. Consider it a faithful adaptation of the original, with some subtle updates under the hood to bring the Chron into the 21st century.
The original Ultra-Chron Diver broke the surface at the apex of the so-called quartz crisis, when new low cost quartz watches suddenly made mechanical timepieces appear like an unnecessary expense. Ironically, instead of dying out, mechanical watches have become only more popular in the half century since. Furthermore, in today’s digital world, where so few of our pleasures are actually tangible or even physical, a precision mechanical watch feels more special than ever.
The new Longines Ultra-Chron is inspired by the aesthetic codes as well as the professional dive features of the 1968 model. It features a unidirectional rotating bezel as well as a screwed-in caseback and crown. The timepiece also offers great legibility and is water resistant to 30 bar (300 meters) if you actually want to dive while wearing it.
Reviving an iconic watch is tricky – get it wrong and risk the ire of collectors or get it right and create a new classic. Longines was keen to evolve the mechanics of the Ultra-Chron to reflect the developments made over the past half century. The secret weapon of the watch, which elevates it to so much more than a nostalgia piece, is the brand new calibre L836.6 at its heart, a high-frequency in house movement. The accuracy of the new Ultra-Chron Diver is confirmed by its certification as an “ultra chronometer” by the prestigious Geneva-based testing laboratory TIMELAB. This seal of approval goes beyond the usual “chronometer” certification that’s standard across many watches. To achieve “ultra-chronometer” qualification, a watch head must stand up to a hectic 15-day testing period, during which the watch is submitted to a series of tests at three temperatures: 8°C, 23° C and 38°C.
The Longines Ultra-Chron Diver is available for purchase with a choice of a leather strap or a steel bracelet, and makes an exciting entry into the dive market for guys who like their watches with a side of history. Clients can also purchase the timepiece with both straps and receive a special presentation box containing a bonus black NATO strap crafted from recycled materials. Starting at $4,800 for the leather version, it’s an accessible price point for what is surely an investment watch. On the wrist, both versions of the Ultra-Chron Diver are ideal for a smart-casual look. Pair it with an Oxford shirt, chinos and a driving shoe and you’re all set to hit the town. ■
By REILLY SULLIVAN
Longines watches are available to shop now at Longines.com and at Longines boutiques and authorised retailers
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